Get step-by-step instructions for how to design your custom embroidered patches. We offer nine thread colors free with your embroidered patch. If you'd like,.
I have made patches for everyone from local motorcycle clubs to the wardrobe department on Better Call Saul, and the truth is that the method for making small numbers of custom patches does not vary much from the big commercial jobs to the craft and home market. In fact, it is easy to make patches like a pro with your, and I am going to show you how.
From the basic steps and settings in digitizing, right through the stitching and finishing processes, I will provide you with a simple method to make patches with the least amount of equipment possible. If you have, sharp scissors, some water-soluble stabilizer, and even the most basic home machine, the techniques will allow you to make your first simple patches with ease.
You will find a download button at the end of this article that will take you to the page where you can download step-by-step instructions in a a printable PDF format and the FREE Hatch Patch design. When I think of the quintessential emblem, the classic scouting merit badge comes to mind. Seeing as a round badge is a simple shape to cut and create, we will start your patch-making education by walking through the process behind my custom Hatch merit badge. In the steps I laid out in the downloadable PDF file, you will learn how to create the proper shapes, the settings to use for solid, clean edges, and execution of the patch design using the manual applique-style method. Taming Tear-Out - A Solid Sequence There are a few ways to create a clean-edged patch with your embroidery machine, but the most common employ a soluble backing or film. The problem many embroiderers have in using these films, however, is that the patch design becomes detached from the backing before the embroidery is complete. This is usually because the digitizer has placed the satin-stitch border before other elements inside the patch, perforating the outside edge too early.
With the backing perforated and weak, submitting it to the stresses of embroidering the design in the middle of the patch can cause it to tear out. In order to avoid that, you must keep you final border last in your sequence. No matter your patch-making method, it's critical that the full-density satin stitch edge runs last to maintain the stabilizer's integrity. Luckily, that does not mean you have to create your design in the proper sequence from the beginning.
With Hatch Embroidery you can easily move elements into the proper order with the Resequence docker after the fact. Just remember that before you export your design, you must move the satin border to the last position after the central design of the patch is complete. The Border It may seem strange after I just told you that the border has to run last, to start digitizing patches by creating the border, but the reason I do this is first so that I can make sure that my central design is properly sized and centered within the space inside said border, and second so that I can make sure my placement and cutting lines are properly offset from the final outer edge of the patch. Creating the border lets me set my final dimensions first and use the border as an easy reference. For this project, I'm creating a large merit badge.
The standard size for a large merit badge is 2.25 inches or roughly 57.15 millimeters. Note: I usually work in metric measurements, seeing as they translate directly to standard embroidery-specific measurements of density and because they are easier to work with in my head than fractions of inches; I will provide both measurements in this article, but I suggest that all embroiderers move over to metrics for digitizing and measurement. 1 inch = 25.4 millimeters; it is a good thing to know.
Steps of Creating the Patch. Digitizing the Border. Creating Placement and Cut Lines. Adding the Central Design. Completing the Border. Adding Texture to the Border. Stitching: Setup and Sequence.
Placing the Fabric. Cutting Away the Excess. Finishing The Finished Patch Apply the Technique Though this project specifically describes a round, merit-badge styled emblem, this technique can be applied to nearly any shape using the same measurements. The steps are the same for any patch using a soluble stabilizer; a placement stitch that runs a little more than 1 mm inside the outer edge of your border, a similarly placed cut line for after the material is placed or a zigzag border thinner than your final cover stitching if you are using pre-cut piece of material, the central embroidery design, then a full, well-underlaid and fully dense final edge in satin stitch. Making emblems is such a simple process that once you start, you will never want to stop. Luckily, with the small investment needed for some thread and speciality backing, patch-making is one of those embroidery specialities that's inexpensive and fun, and does not cost you a garment if an experiment goes awry. I hope you'll give embroidering emblems a try!
Every custom patch starts with an idea. The idea may be a theme, an event to commemorate, or a brand identity. Stadri has a team of award-winning, in-house artists, ready to create your patch from a text description, photograph, or sketch. The design service is free with each patch order. The intended message of you custom patch needs to come across to your audience. Simplicity is best. Don't try to crowd in too many details.
Prepare a rough or finished sketch, or send a logo, photo, or sample patch. If you are not an artist, don't worry! Simply describe your patch design in words. Our art department will interpret your ideas into a stunning graphic!
If you are an artist, be as precise as you'd like. We will conform to your design as closely as possible.
The most common type of border is a merrowed border, which wraps around the edge of the entire patch, and is always 1/8” in thickness. This is best for simple shapes, such as circles, squares, rectangles, etc. A diecut border is cut to the shape of the design and is ideal for more complex custom shapes with many in-cuts and sharp angles. There is no price difference between these two types of borders. We choose the border that is most appropriate for the design, unless the customer has a specific preference. Plastic: Adds stiffness and gives your patch support, allowing it to retain its shape over time. Still thin enough to sew through.
Heatseal: Another word for iron-on. Allows you to apply your patch to a garment using a home iron.
NOTE: Heatseal will not stick to nylon or other synthetic fabrics. Hook and Loop Backing One (hook) side or both sides are available. Adhesive: A peel and stick backing to hold a patch in place for a single event. It will not hold up to machine washing. For permanent placement, go with the heatseal option, or with plastic and sew your patches. Every embroidered patch starts with a piece of twill fabric; then threads are stitched on top. Embroidery coverage simply refers to whether or not the entire surface of the twill will be covered by thread.
As you can see in the example, the patch with under 100% embroidery coverage has an unstitched background, leaving the gray twill exposed. This is ideal if your design has a large area of solid color. It is also a lower-cost option.
In the 100% embroidery example, thread completely covers the twill, with no gray twill showing.